Saturday, July 23, 2011

France VII: Parting Photos

Shady walkway in Paris

My host house in St Fuscien

A window box in Laon

Cafes in Amiens on the Canal
That's not a person but a statue in the canal. He often ends up wearing the shirts of the local universities. After a night of drinking it is common to swim out and dress him.

Windmill

Sunset in St Fuscien

Thursday, July 21, 2011

France VI: WWI Verdun

General thoughts about WWI sites:

1. We did not get enough WWI history in school, we skipped right to WWII.
2. The sites, even 100 years later are very powerful and very sad.
3. The scope and amount of destruction is unbelievable.
4. There was no skill that could possibly increase your chances of living, it was pure random luck where the millions of bombs fell.
5. It amazes me how well they care for the cemeteries on a daily basis, and how integrated all of them are for French and German soldiers. It is really like the horror of war transcended which side you happened to be on.
6. We all agreed that we could not imagine modern society giving the same degree of sacrifice and dedication.

Near Amiens we came across a monument dedicated to the first place the US entered WWI to help the French. While there, we met a man who was trimming the hedges around the monument. My friend started talking to him about the site, and next thing I know he told us he was going to open the museum for us to see.
In hindsight, I did not get enough pictures to do this justice, however by museum it was his garage with his car parked in it and around it was tables of artifacts.
He had pictures of Eisenhower coming to visit the site.



He had all kinds of things found in the fields around here.

Yes, these are WWI unexploded ordinances at the front of his car in the garage.


Here is a nearby cemetery, the white crosses are French and each Gray cross is 2 Germans. It was interesting to see most of the French dies in 1914 at the start, and many of the Germans were 1918. It seemed to come in waves with the tide of war.

Then we went out to Verdun in Eastern France. Verdun is a small city with nearby forts that the Germans thought would be easily taken, hard to reinforce and on the main roads to Paris. They did not anticipate the response of the French. In this countryside over 300,000 people dies in under 1 year. Nearly 2/3 of all French WWI soldiers saw time at Verdun as they had to keep rotating troops to keep moral high due to the high kill rates in Verdun.
We went to the museum which had a movie, many of the soldiers wrote that the land looks like the moon, like they were already in hell and they could never imagine anything ever growing here again.

Everything today looks like golf bunkers due to the amount of exploded shells here. Even today they said it was common for farmers and off trail hikers to be injured by unexploded shells.

Here is the Ossuary, a huge church built to house the unidentified remains of over 130,000 French and German soldiers.

Here is part of the cemetery outside of the Ossuary, that has over 100,000 known soldiers who died here.

And yes here are the bones in the windows of the Ossuary of the unknown.

Inside each block is an engraving of a soldier.

For the lucky who survived, they have some pictures of them then and now.

Then we went out to some of the 16 villages that were destroyed in the war and never resettled. A forest has grown up around them, but they have created markers to represent where each house used to stand.
Today each village only has a small new chapel and the remains of what is left.

Each white marker used to be a house before the war. They posted signs on them like "This used to be the Bakery or a Farmer's house"


Then we came across the first monument built for this area. A barage of shells buried an entire trench, killing everyone. They only found it because the bayonets of their guns were sticking out of the ground. So they built a memorial around the trench and left it intact.

You could spend a week here and not see everything. Every small road has a sign here or there saying some trench or remains of the war 100M into a trail in the woods.
Here I am in the remains of a WWI trench. This one was built after the French started to trun the tide and was used for communication between the forts.

More random remains of trenches in the woods.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

France V: Champagne

We toured the Wine Caves of Champagne. I had in my mind Wine Cellars. But no there are 100's of kM of caves below the cities that were originally dug out by the Romans (and the Gauls!) then used by the wineries.
Not too bad to go to bed and wake up to Champagne:



Here is the entrance into the wine caves in Pommery

We are either going to find the Phantom of the Opera or a wine cave:

Anyone for a Wine Cave Marathon?

Here are some racks where the gradually increase the angle of the bottle to separate the yeast:

Here are some "live" bottles that will be stored between 3-10 years.

Here are some remaining bottles from old Vintages, yes there is a bottle left of 1874 if anyone is interested!

This Barrel held over 100,000 bottles of champagne sent to St Louis for the 1904 Worlds Fair. The carvings depict the city of Reims (w/ Cathedral on the bottom left) introducing the US to Champagne (Notice Statue of Liberty on top left).

Monday, July 18, 2011

France IV: Chateau Pierefonds

This Chateau was originally a fort, then in the 1850's Napoleon took it for a private castle.

Nothing like eating lunch outside at a cafe with a view of a castle!

Excellent view from the front door. Notice all the slits in the wall for the archers to take you out.

Here is a view from the other side of one.

Enters into a huge courtyard:

An old blacksmith or something just inside the castle walls.

Ballroom

What could possibly be down in the dungeon?

Oh yeah, all the Tombs of the Royalty who lived here, one "Princess' we saw died in 1140 AD

Saturday, July 16, 2011

France III: Amiens Cathedral

In 1208, during the 4th crusade, the head of John the Baptist was brought from Istanbul to Amiens. So to house it, they built the largest Gothic structure every built. The head is not always on display but I was able to see it.
The Cathedral was originally painted, so at night they do a light show to restore the original color. The light show is amazing in its detail and precision.

This cathedral is a monster in a modern city, I can only imagine what it would have looked like on the horizon of these farm 800 years ago!
From Inside: It is significantly taller than I had expected.

The pictures do not do justice to how amazing the original stained glass looks. During the wars they would remove some of the original glass and burry it to prevent it from being destroyed by bombs.

Day

Night
Notice just below the circular Rose Window is I believe every Saint as of 1208.

Here are some of the Statues by the doors. Each has a different story. One was the life of Mary with different scenes from her life. Others show Judgement Day and people being divided into those following angels and other being pulled away by demons.

Look at the amazing detail in the clothes from the light show.

What is also very interesting, is one of the doors has the symbols of the Zodiac and with it pictures of what work should be occurring in your farm at that time. So along with all of these stories from the bible and all the saints depicted, the builders took the time to add the zodiac in fairly prominent spots by the front door.